遊走高加索的格魯吉亞和亞美尼亞，深深體會到當地人的單純、熱情、好客都是源自宗教對人民精神和生活的影響。
格魯吉亞
漂亮的導遊Tamuna 帶我們遊訪了幾個古老的東正教堂，向我們訴說著格魯吉亞人民怎樣在這幾百年的動盪歷史間，如何虔誠的守護著自己的宗教。
每次走進古老破舊的教堂裏，看見她美麗的輪廓被那些窗間透過的光線、或是柔和的燭光映照得彷如一幅油畫。特別邀請她在每一個我們到訪的教堂，拍攝一張照片，為的為的是讓我記住這些神聖的畫面，記住格魯吉亞人虔誠的故事。
格魯吉亞經歷了無數次戰火的洗禮，第比利斯古城庫拉河的木橋上曾經上演過一幕宗教大屠殺，入侵的伊斯蘭國王強迫格魯吉亞人背棄東正教，但虔誠的國民寧死不屈，最後屍體飄滿整個庫拉河，河水染成了紅色。
在七十多年的蘇維埃時期，很多教堂變成了糧倉。教堂裏珍貴的壁畫沒有得到適當的保護，失去了色彩。虔誠的格魯吉亞人在這二十年間，努力輔修教堂，最可喜的是雖然經過了七十多年的宗教壓迫，新一代的年輕人卻能夠保持虔誠！
也是因為對宗教的虔誠，國民雖然生活在戰爭的陰霾裏，卻依然充滿希望和愛！
他們互愛互助，也把愛與和平的訊息通過我們這些旅客，帶往世界！
抵達格魯吉亞的那個週末，適逢復活節，格魯吉亞人把新綠的樹葉帶到教堂讓神父灑水施與祝福，然後帶回家中擺放一年。我也千里迢迢，把長青綠葉帶了回港，希望神恩眷顧！
亞美尼亞
亞美尼亞是世界上第一個門徒基督教國家，和格魯吉亞一樣，經歷了百年戰火，無數次異教入侵，卻堅持著對基督教的虔誠。
我們曾經到訪一個在高山上的廢棄教堂，神職人員告訴我們那個教堂由於地勢偏遠，已經有五百年沒有人來修復管理，而他和兩個神職人員也是近五年間才開始用僅有的資源在努力修建，他們希望通過旅客，讓世界關注這些珍貴的文化遺產。
這一位教堂管理員居住在人煙罕至的高山上，獨自打理著這一片荒土。
漂亮的亞美尼亞少女Nuni是我們的翻譯，在復活節期間，他們堅守著古老的齋戒傳統。每次進入教堂時，還按照習俗，帶上頭巾。
我們遊訪的幾個亞美尼亞教堂，都是風景優美的古老建築，遙望雪山峻嶺，更顯聖神脫俗！
旅程
神秘的高加索
熱情的高加索
慷慨的高加索
淳樸的高加索
虔誠的高加索
好鍾意呢篇高加索. 相片, 文字完全紀錄0左高加索對宗教的虔誠.
回覆刪除[版主回覆05/24/2012 00:58:15]都要多謝Tamuna同Nuni的合作，才能完成這一篇虔誠的高加索篇。有她們的美麗輪廓加在教堂景點前，景裏面有了情。
一連看了妳高加索及羅美尼亞之旅 , 真的令人感受到一份異國人情及一份淳樸無汚染的美 , 亦貫徹舸兒那份 "真感覺"
回覆刪除[版主回覆05/24/2012 01:15:15]我們去過的旅遊地區，大都已經被商業化污染，沒想到這個地區尚未開發，而且語言不通，所以尚能保持淳樸。讓我們這些“久不見蓮花”的都市人驚豔了。
可能就是他們有著宗教的信仰, 令他們可以刻服無數次戰火洗禮的悲痛...很喜歡你拍的頭幾張照片, 好holy)))))
回覆刪除[版主回覆05/24/2012 01:51:00]但也是因為宗教才引起當地的戰火。第一張照片是無意拍攝，然後發現很有意思，整個旅程就邀請導遊協助拍攝每一個教堂。有了虔誠的少女，教堂的景更添故事性。
宗教的力量縱然強大, 但最主要是人的內心根本存有善意, 不會走火入魔 , 扭曲了神聖的指引...
回覆刪除將導遊的側面加入教堂背景, 非常美的畫面, 平靜,祥和...你有寄她一份嗎?
[版主回覆05/24/2012 01:55:47]有呀！回港後已經把她們加入面書，成為了面書好友呢。
感覺女導遊心靈非常滿足!
回覆刪除[版主回覆05/24/2012 02:02:32]她們都很善良，希望我們香港的導遊阿珍能夠向她們學習。
對呀，寫得很好。我自己也是很大程度被虔誠和熱心的的高加索打動。
回覆刪除[版主回覆05/25/2012 00:52:17]坦白說風景和教堂，世界各地各有特色，我們見過的破舊教堂未能得到很好的修復保護，但是高加索的人民確實比其他地方的人單純虔誠。不是那種祈求上帝給予更多，更豐盛的。他們的禱告裏，往往是祈求和平和能夠為人付出。所以說很不一樣。
Thanks for your introduction to a country seldom made by the regular HK tourists whose culture is still dominated by the Russian Orthodox Church.
回覆刪除[El Zorro回覆05/25/2012 07:45:46]You're right, it was an independent Christian state and became first a protectorate of Russia under the reign of Catherine the Great because of threats from Islamic expansion and was formally annexed to Russia only at the start of the 19th century but became independent again in 1991 after a referendum in 1990.
[版主回覆05/25/2012 01:07:41]Georgians believe they are a part of Orthodox Church since ancient time even before Russian has it's nation. Therefore, they will not agree they are dominated by "Russian Orthodox Church" Russian and Georgia are now enemies, from conversations, you will know they do not like Russians who keep invading their land and killing their people.
舸兒把教堂的神聖, 導遊和翻譯的美麗結合在一起, 感人的照片和介紹令人醒覺世界上另一國度, 遙遠的,真實的. 很感動.
回覆刪除[版主回覆05/25/2012 01:39:27]神聖的教堂沒有了虔誠的人物，只是一個破舊的房子，最讓人感動的是高加索人民對宗教的忠誠執著，也是因為宗教，他們待人以誠，慷慨熱情。
古老建築配在遠處雪山峻嶺、 正如美麗輪廓在教堂柔和光影下、 都神聖脫俗！ ~~~~~~~~~好看的圖象！ 有感染力的文字！
回覆刪除[版主回覆05/25/2012 01:42:36]希望他們這個地區能夠安寧和平，不再被戰爭困擾。
在那些古舊的教堂內, 令我們動容的是當地人那淳樸而虞誠的心! 連人也變得美麗而神聖, 清麗而脫俗!
回覆刪除btw, 因近期生活上的轉變, 讓我深深感受到聖經中其中一句: 愛是恆久忍耐 ....
[版主回覆05/25/2012 02:03:36]Are you OK? 有時間出來聚聚啦！
How come you got all the pretty tour guides!!
回覆刪除Seriously, there's nothing wrong with religions, it's the people who try to force others to convert which causes many of these so called "Holy War" depending on which side you looking at it...
[版主回覆05/25/2012 02:10:01]Ha! we are really lucky to have two pretty guides and they are very nice too.
Totally agree with your point. Most of the religions are teaching people be kind and nice. It's the people who want others to agree and follow what they believe so start invading others' land and culture.
血流成河都要堅持信仰，真是不簡單！
回覆刪除[版主回覆05/26/2012 00:35:40]就是因為這是他們所堅持的，所以才是“信仰”吧。不相信、不仰忘的才會叛變。
第二張捕捉得很好, 愛那頂上透射入教堂內的靈光.
回覆刪除這是個必要到訪的地方. 你是隨團還是自由行的?
[版主回覆05/26/2012 00:44:23]Peter兄，我們是自由行，市面上還沒有旅行團到訪。幸運我們有旅遊達人同訪，她為我們安排了當地的旅行社接待，有導遊和司機。當地夏天非常熱，冬天又冰天雪地，所以五月天是最好的季節。我們時間有限，沒有前往格魯吉亞高山地區走走，我們回港後，又有朋友前往，單是在格魯吉亞就留了8天，她們拍回來的高山地區風景非常美，我們還打算再去一次呢。
最末一張最精彩，遠處白色雪山，近處蒼翠田野，看了令人神往。
回覆刪除[版主回覆05/26/2012 01:17:31]這也是此行我最喜歡的一道風景，阿拉拉克雪山前的修道院那麼的莊嚴卻在自然風景下那麼的渺小。可惜到訪當天天氣陰暗，做了手腳，才讓雪山比較顯眼。
very nice
回覆刪除[版主回覆05/26/2012 23:07:48]Thank you!
"就是因為這是他們所堅持的，所以才是“信仰”吧..... ....." 十分同意舸兒你這個判斷呢!!
回覆刪除"經歷了百年戰火，無數次異教入侵，卻堅持著對基督教的虔誠.... 國民雖然生活在戰爭的陰霾裏，卻依然充滿希望和愛..."
他/她們是為主作見證!!
[版主回覆06/01/2012 23:08:50]在艱苦的歲月裏，人性的光輝發揮得淋漓盡致！
世上如沒有「希望」和「愛」，人類可能或不應再生存了。照片很漂亮，感謝分享並祝一切安好！
回覆刪除很鍾愛舸兒的敍述，人民人情與靈質，我確實感受到！！
回覆刪除亦相信深刻在你心中。
看著EK提供的短片和你的描述,真高興! 謝謝
回覆刪除Dear 舸兒,
回覆刪除My friends and I (totally 6 persons) plan to visit Cacasus in mid September 2013. We found difficulties to obtain LOI and visa of Azerbaijan. We are now approaching a Azerbaijan local agent, which will offer LOI, but everything is not guarantee to get the visa. The best and reliable way so far to obtain visa of Azerbaijan is to send our passport to Azerbaijan embassy at Malaysia by courtier, and this way takes 3 to 4 months to get visa. Even this way to get the way is the most reliable and practical way but everything is no promise.
Please advise your way to get LOI and visa of Azerbaijan. Your recommendation of tour agents is highly appreciated. Please offer your choices of local tour operators for these three countries if possible.
If possible, send your mail at eonwollaston@yahoo.com.hk
Thank a lotttttttttttttttt
[Amybbb回覆08/19/2013 17:19:29]Wow, dunno the visa is a potential problem tim..... but surely list this in my coming travel plans..... seems like my travel concentrated around Eastern Europe area in this two years, ha ha....
[版主回覆01/09/2013 00:45:57]Dear Lam,
Great to know that Cacasus will be in your travel plan in 2013. regarding land operators in these three countries, I have to refer you to my travel mate Mak Mak who is also my tour leader and itinerary planner. She knows all the contacts because she is working for a local travel agent and planning package for advanture seekers. You may contact her from following blog link: http://blog.yahoo.com/round-the-world-cafe/articles/617013/index
I only have HKSAR passport which I used to get visa for Georgia and Armania. I didn't go to Azerbaijan at the end as I didn't have enough time to apply a BNO. Due to the war between Azerbaijan and Armania, visitors can only enter one of these two countries. What my friends did was using BNO to get the Armania and Georgia landing visa but use a seperate passport HKSAR to enter Azerbaijan. The land operator in Georgia will be able to help you to do it when you arrive Georgia. You may also refer to the following link to know more of Azerbaijan Visa issue. Following article of my travel mate has detail explained how they work it out to pass the Azerbaijan Immigration:
http://blog.yahoo.com/_4DYJRKFD4TPRD65R54MWLGJQWM/articles/page/1
For Georgia, please do not miss the moutain side. Please see following blog which my friend writen:
http://blog.yahoo.com/ek.ek/articles/645490
http://blog.yahoo.com/ek.ek/articles/644039
Good Luck!
Connie
Amy,
回覆刪除All of our visa were issued easily by GeorgiCa travel agency. All payment has been made to the agency and we will have the tour 20 September.
Thank Mak Mak's recommendation. Everything is simple by the assistance of GeorgiCa.